What Do We Know about Vanilla?
Vanilla is rich, complex, and storied. Warm with a heady scent, it adds depth to foods in a way that's been beloved for centuries. But as ubiquitous and beloved as this natural ingredient is, vanilla is often misunderstood and a target for artificial copies.
Marty Parisien will talk about vanilla all day. As the co-founder of Singing Dog Vanilla, an Oregon-based pure vanilla company founded in 2004, Parisien has seen it all in the industry. We called him to ask about the issues he comes across, what we should look out for when sourcing high-quality real vanilla, and why he loves working with this gorgeous ingredient.
A Conversation with Marty Parisien
When it comes to buying real vanilla, what are some concerns about quality and integrity that you’d like people to be aware of?
The FDA designates what pure vanilla extract is—13.35 ounces of vanilla beans extracted into one gallon of 35 percent alcohol-water solution. Vanilla is one of the only flavors the FDA defines. So we have to hold to that standard. The problem is, much like with the olive oil industry, people and companies are making vanilla that doesn't comply with those rules and claiming it’s real.
When most people buy a fake vanilla flavor, they know it's fake: [Artificial vanilla] is labeled clearly in the US. It’s usually made from a derivative of wood pulp. But the biggest problem in the US—which all of us in the vanilla industry deal with—is people going to Mexico to buy cheap vanilla that is labeled as real FDA-approved when it’s not, it’s fake. The fake stuff that people get across the border is filled with who knows what kind of chemicals. A lot of it has Tonka bean extract, which has been linked to renal failure. [Editor’s note: Tonka bean is illegal in the US.] People buy this cheap, bring it across the border, and say, ‘I got this really good vanilla. It's really strong, and it was really cheap,’ when it’s all fake and filled with a lot of bad stuff.
What are some common misconceptions about real vanilla?
People will often tell me that they got a really good real vanilla that’s clear. Well, vanilla is not clear. There's no way to make a clear vanilla. Vanilla is brown.
The heavy hitter is price. Vanilla—real vanilla—is very expensive. It’s the only edible fruit from an orchid. The orchid takes about five years to mature and begin flowering. When it throws out a flower in the morning, you have about four hours to hand-pollinate it before the flower drops. Then it takes about nine months for this to grow into a full big green vanilla bean, which is then picked and sun-dried like raisins in the sun every day for about two months. They’re laid out in the sun, picked back up at night, and laid out in the sun the next day. Then they’re sorted, bundled up, and put into conditioning boxes for a couple of months—and that’s when they start to smell like vanilla.
It's fascinating because vanilla is beloved and ubiquitous, but it’s often considered ‘basic’ or ‘plain’ for those who may not fully grasp its complexity.
It is so complex! There are between 250 and 300 flavor compounds that have been identified in vanilla. So it’s amazing that we use it to mean ‘plain’ in American English.
What’s amazing about vanilla is that you don't taste vanilla in many things, but it brings out all the other flavors. Like in a crumble or a cherry pie, you may or may not taste vanilla, but it brings out everything else. And you will notice when the vanilla is not there. It’s like a support to everything else. We don’t know exactly why it works, but it works.
We created a vanilla salt. It comes in a grinder, so you grind the salt and vanilla together. We use it on everything from pineapple slices to fresh crab, seared steak, and salmon. It’s amazing what it does. Salt and vanilla are two things that bring out the flavor.
What is important to look out for when purchasing real vanilla?
Look to see that it was extracted in the USA. Price is an indicator. Price is a marker Like olive oil, truffle oil, or anything that can be faked. Vanilla is expensive. You should always be able to call or email the vendor and ask for a certification of analysis. We have this for every batch we extract. It’s also important to see that the alcohol used to mix is derived from a botanic source, not petroleum. Ours is from organic cane sugar. We do this rather than corn or soy because of allergies.
But again, I always encourage customers to ask questions. If you’re concerned about the quality or the alcohol used, contact the vendor and ask. There are some really good vanillas out there, and the good companies will answer your questions.
What do you love about vanilla and working in this industry?
You meet a lot of really interesting people in this business, both on the supplier side and on the customer side. I’ve met chefs all over. I’ve met mothers whose children are allergic to ingredients, and they’re so grateful we can tell them everything in our vanilla because we're transparent about ingredients. I’ve met many different people from around the world. I think that's been the most interesting part of this business. It reaches everywhere because everybody has a story about vanilla.
You can learn more about Marty and Singing Dog Vanilla at singingdogvanilla.com.
