The PrimaFoodie Guide to Conscious Coffee
There are worlds within worlds when it comes to coffee. As one of the most-consumed beverages across the globe (in the US, 70 percent of Americans consume coffee, of which more than 60 percent drink it every day), coffee is rich with history and layered in ritual. Rare is it to find a breakfast spread without a steaming pot of joe, just as it is common to find people walking the street clutching tall lattes. Coffee punctuates the gastronomical world and our everyday lives.
Yet for being such a mainstay beverage, coffee is misunderstood—and the area of most nebulousness is the corruption in the coffee growing and distribution industry. Mismanagement, corrupt practices, pay discrepancies, child and adult labor abuses, unethical compensation, and intense regulations come at a high price for coffee farmers around the world. Due to the manual work required to grow and harvest coffee, coffee farming is intense and often exploitative. And while various certifications require strict measures, they can still result in unfair outcomes for the coffee growers and cultivators—even if the intention behind the certification is good.
“Coffee has long been a very opaque business,” Winter Wall tells us. “From cultivation to harvesting to processing to shipping, roasting, packaging, grinding, and brewing, the coffee journey is nuanced and complicated.” Wall is the founder of Kebon, a coffee company that focuses on equitably sourcing curated, single-origin beans from women coffee farmers and women-owned coffee businesses around the globe. Wall anchors Kebon on opening opportunities to capital and market to these hard-working women in the coffee business who too often fall victim to the intensely gendered pay disparities of the industry.
The light on this dark topic is that there is a drive to better understand this complicated industry and massive commodity. “Thankfully passionate consumers are driving the demand in the coffee business,” says Wall. “Especially with habitual consumables, like coffee, our choices really add up.” And as consumers’ demands get more discerning, the producers are shedding greater light on the history of their beans and the treatment of those cultivating them. Many coffee brands are driven by a mission to broker direct relationships with the coffee farmers—like Wall does—and to ensure transparency and ethics come first.
Yet still, there is so much to know, and the coffee industry can be overwhelming. So as we do at PrimaFoodie, we dug deeper. Here we clarify what some of the common certifications on coffee mean, and we offer some working consumer guidelines for sourcing more conscious, ethical coffee.
Editor’s Note: Like all of our PrimaFoodie Guides, this is a working project that we will continue to update as we consistently research practices and brands that align with our values. Coffee is a huge, complicated world and we strive to continue to dig deeper to provide you with direction for making the best, most ethical choices for you.
Coffee Certifications to Know
Fair Trade Certified
Fair Trade Certified (or FairTrade Certified) is meant to signify that the coffee beans come directly from smaller farmers—and those farmers were paid a “fair” and equitable price for their labor and product. The certification comes from either Fairtrade International or Fair Trade America, which designate a specific price to adequately cover the expenses of sustainable production. This price, which is added to the price of the coffee, is then supposed to be given to the coffee producers. Because the term “fair trade” is not protected, always look for Fair Trade or FairTrade Certified and be leery of coffee companies that casually boast “fair trade” on the package with no certification to back it up. Overall, the push behind this certification is to promote fair pricing and labor conditions, environmental stewardship, and transparency. (To ensure your coffee beans are the product of equitable business relations, see our Guidelines below.)
Certified Organic
The Department of Agriculture regulates this certification, which is given to products of all sorts, from vegetables to coffee. When coffee is certified organic by the USDA it means that the beans were grown and harvested without the use of potentially toxic synthetic pesticides and fertilizers.
Bird-Friendly Certified
The Smithsonian National Zoo and Migratory Bird Center offers this extremely rigorous certification, which mandates that coffee is shade-grown, meaning its grown under the natural canopy of larger rainforest trees that are within a specific height to honor the birds and other animals that live where the coffee is grown.
Rainforest Alliance Certified
The Rainforest Alliance is an independent non-profit organization that aims to protect farmers working in rain forests and the surrounding lands. The organization denotes certification to certain foods, including coffee, that meet strict standards regarding ethical, sustainable, and humanitarian conditions.
3 Guidelines for Sourcing Conscious Coffee
#1. Look for traceability.
When you pick up a new bag of beans, turn it over to see if the company offers insight into the origin of the beans and how they were sourced. This (ideally) includes information on the coffee plantation and its ownerls, how the beans were cultivated and processed, the use of any toxic chemicals or pesticides, and how the workers were treated and compensated. “Traceability is key to understanding the entirety of the production timeline and supply chain,” says Wall. “When we understand how, when, and why our coffee is produced, we are able to identify, and begin to create solutions around, the key issues that have plagued the industry such as pay discrepancies, quality disparities, and labor abuses.”
#2. Aim for single-origin beans when possible.
When coffee is deemed “single-origin” it means the beans in the bag come from one single source straight to you, which makes traceability and quality assurance easier for the consumer. According to Wall, an estimated 25 million people around the globe rely on coffee for their livelihood with roughly 70 percent of coffee coming from smallholder farms. Many mass-marketed household-name coffee brands source beans from a myriad of places without any care to how these small farmers are treated. (Many of these workers are horrifically exploited.) These large brands then toss those various beans into one blend, making it impossible to know any history behind where and how your coffee was sourced. This is not to say that all single-origin coffee is ethical (unethical distributors can get involved), nor is it to discredit blends (there are many companies producing many ethical blends). But single-origin is a sound place to start amidst all the noise in the industry. “I believe deeply in direct sourcing and single origin coffees as a way of building relationships with the growers and producers of my favorite coffees,” says Wall.
#3 Consider your values—and find those in a perfect bag of beans.
Many of the burgeoning ethical coffee companies out there are focusing on specific goals to help eradicate the issues. These can include closing the gender pay disparity gap, ridding the use of toxic pesticides, and revealing hidden child labor practices. “For me, a great goal is to align my values to my purchases as closely as possible,” says Wall, who suggests making a list of core values to use as a filter for purchasing coffee. “Thankfully, there are many companies that offer a mission-driven value proposition.”
PrimaFoodie-Loved Ethical Coffee Brands
The following beans make paramount equitable wages, sustainable practices, and humane treatment in the coffee industry.
Article by Stacey Lindsay